One of the most important ways to have great skin is keeping it clean and rejuvenated.  This means protecting your makeup and keeping it fresh and bacteria free.  Here is a very important article written by Leslie Baumann, MD.  Please read!

Here’s to great skin!

Cheers,

Jennifer

When Is It Time to Toss Your Makeup?

After spending half your paycheck at a department store makeup counter, the last thing you want to think about is throwing your hard-earned treats away! But when it comes to beauty products, it’s important to learn when to let go. Past its prime, the makeup that you love can actually cause acne and skin irritation.

First things first: Storage is half the battle. The less oxygen your makeup is exposed to, the longer it will last, so always screw those caps on tightly. And keep your cosmetics in cool, dark places – heat and light can cause makeup products’ preservatives to break down.

Next, consider the following rules of thumb: If you use makeup with retinol, the retinol will “expire” and stop being effective in about a month. The makeup itself, though, should still be perfectly usable but you will not be getting the benefits of retinol.

Mascara is the item in your makeup arsenal with the shortest lifespan and the highest susceptibility to bacterial contamination. Experts agree that you should replace it every three months. (And remember basic precautions: Never share mascara, and toss any open tubes if you’ve had an eye infection.)

As a general rule, creamy products need to be tossed sooner than powders. Your cream blush, foundation, and concealer should last about a year. (Oil-based foundation, however, lasts longer than water-based – up to 18 months.)

Powdered products – facial powder, eye shadow, and powder blush, for example – are among the longest-lasting items in your medicine cabinet, and should last for two to three years.  When sharpened regularly, liners – eye and lip are good for up to three years. Thank goodness for self-renewing beauty products.

Lipstick is another one of the makeup world’s great values, and should stay with you (barring any changes in fashion, of course) for a good three years. These guidelines refer to the most common makeup brands.

“Natural” products, however, have fewer preservatives and typically need to be replaced sooner. Another tip I’ve heard several times, is that storing foundation and lipstick in the fridge can extend their shelf lives. So move aside, mustard and salad dressing!

Of course, all of these guidelines are trumped by common sense: If you notice any unusual odors coming from your makeup products, toss them immediately. Changes in color or texture (like clumping or separating) are also a sign that you’re due for a trip to the makeup counter.

Finally, don’t neglect the tools you’re applying all these products with – makeup brushes and sponges can harbor bacteria that lead to acne. Some unconfirmed studies have also suggested bacteria may contribute to rosacea.

Wash your makeup brushes and sponges in mild detergent every week (and replace sponges regularly). Always lay brushes flat to dry – stand them upright, and water can seep into the metal bands that hold bristles together, causing rusting and damage to their handles.

Wishing you great skin!

By Leslie Baumann, M.D.

Get ready!  Makeup trends for fall 2009 are rich and classic. Dark greens, browns, and other earthy forest colors are used to complement the ever-popular smoky eye. This trend continues to emphasize a heavy accent on the eyes. Look for matte, velvety shadows to complete the look. Smokey eyes and dark eye shadow will continue to be popular, so be sure to invest in some matte black eye shadow. If you want to add a touch of shimmer, a luxurious gold can be used as a hot accent.

Carrying over from the spring, the look for the face is still a fresh, natural finish.  Using foundations that give a soft matte texture with slightly dewy accents provides for healthy, moist skin. Blush complements the foundation trend by being soft and light. Pink tones are used to create an angelic flushed look.  

There are two strong choices for your most sensuous asset, the lips. To compliment fresh skin, nude colored lips paired with rich, smoky eyes are a sexy way to go. But if you prefer a more mature look, bold, classic red is as strong as ever. Just be sure and balance them with very natural eyes. Think pin-up or Marilyn Monroe and your look will be in trend. 

Say goodbye to pencil thin brows! Brows are still very natural, full, and well groomed. And if you need help getting that perfect shape, brow templates are very helpful.

 Now that you are ready to be gorgeous for fall, go express yourself and have fun!

Jennifer Campain is a professional makeup artist and owner of Jennifer Campain Makeup Artistry: jennifercampain.com. 

If you were able to watch me on May 13th  on the WFMZ morning show, I talked about doing the bronze look for summer and specifically pool parties. It’s very easy. To recap, simply start out with a SPF 15 moisturizer all over the face. Next, conceal lightly around the eyes, nose, and mouth. Then sponge on a thin layer of a water-based foundation or tinted moisturizer all over your face.

Using a blush brush, gently dust your hairline, cheeks, nose, forehead with a bronzing powder. Both loose and pressed versions works just perfectly! Next, prime your eye lids all over with a matte shadow in the color of vanilla (or caramel if you are darker toned). Follow this by taking an eye shadow in the tone of warm cocoa and smudging it into the outer corner of your upper eyelid and crease. If your skin tone is dark, then use a deep coffee or light charcoal color. Gently blend over. Finish the look with a dot of a creamy pink-biege toned lipstick.  You’ll want to forgo mascara in case you want to jump in the water!  This is a fun, fresh look for being active and enjoying the sun!

There has been quite a buzz about mineral makeup. What is it? Mineral makeup is a cosmetic that lists inorganic pigments (minerals) such zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, mica, and iron oxides as primary ingredients. These are pigments with natural color derived from the earth. How is it different from standard formulation cosmetics? From a makeup artist’s perspective, it is primarily differentiated by its more sheer nature. Also, since it is powder-based, there are less binders than standard makeup formulations typically have.

If you are a dancer or television personality, you would need creamy, dense formulations to withstand hot lights, flash photography and perspiration. Mineral formulations typically do not provide that kind of density. However, if you are a bride looking for a soft, natural look on your wedding day, mineral makeup may be the best choice. Its breezy light feel provides for dewy, natural, makeup.

As a makeup artist, I use both standard and mineral formulations. That way I can successfully meet the needs of all my different clients. The best thing you can do for yourself is read labels and understand your own skin. I recommend the old fashion “trial and error” process in discovering which cosmetic type is right for you. If it feels good and you are happy with the result, you have dialed into a good cosmetic prescription! However, if your skin becomes irritated, that is a sign that the cosmetic is not right for you. If you are still left frustrated, ask an experienced makeup artist for help. You will get the best advice from an artist that is paid to apply makeup regularly. The cosmetic industry is constantly changing as is your face and body chemistry. So be sure and embrace change and try new formulations to further your art of self-expression through cosmetics.

Need to get ready in a flash? You can do it in four fast steps:

1. Dot concealer under the eyes, around the nose, and around the mouth.

2. Swipe bronzing powder over the eye lids, cheeks, nose, forehead, and chin.

3. Dot lips with a neutral-toned lip gloss or lipstick.

4. Bend lashes with eyelash curler. Go!

Photo by John Falocco

Good Afternoon Jennifer,

I saw you on the local news earlier this week and I was hoping you could answer a question.

What is the correct or most flattering way to apply eyeliner? The reason I ask, is because I’ve heard so many conflicting things. For instance, for the upper lids I’ve heard to apply close to the lash line but I also heard to apply to the inside rim. When applying liner to the bottom, I’ve heard to start with the middle of the lash line to the outside corner, I also heard to apply to the inside rim and also to apply to both the lower lash line and the inside rim. Confusing!

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank You!

Jill Horvath

Lehigh Valley, PA

Hi Jill,

Glad you caught the show, thanks for writing. You have a very good question.

With the upper lids, you are correct. You apply the liner right at the lash line. Then, make the liner thicker at the outside corners of the eye and thinner as you go inward. Next, use a pencil brush (a very firm short brush) to smudge it into place. Smudging eye liner sets it into place and makes it appear softer, which is ultimately more flattering to the eye.  Sometimes, a couple layers of liner are required to get the amount just right. I personally do not apply liner inside the rim of upper lash lid.  I don’t think the effect is strong enough to suffer the discomfort.

For a natural look, I do not put liner (or mascara) on the bottom lash line. I either leave it completely bare OR I add a soft smoldering layer of eye shadow under the outer half of the bottom lash using a flat firm brush.

A smokey eye technique requires a few easy steps. Place eye liner in the bottom inner rim of the eye. (Be sure and dip your pencil in isopropyl alcohol first, keeping your pencil free of bacteria. You can pick up isopropyl alcohol at the grocery store for .99.) Next, apply black shadow (using a firm pencil brush) right at the root of the lash. This is followed by applying your crease color UNDER the root of the lash. This creates a soft gradient effect, making it look “smokey” and flattering. I would never put eye liner on the bottom lash without these steps; otherwise you will close up the eye. It’s also a very dated look.

Now go have fun with makeup!

Warm Regards,

Jennifer

Photo by John Falocco

The leading theme for spring is fresh and neutral skin. This is always a priority for me when working with my clients, but now it’s the look! Light, water-based foundations and tinted moisturizers are powerful tools in achieving this light, yet effective result. If you have some “high traffic areas” or blemishes to conceal, simply spot treat them with color correctors, then gently blend with your foundation. To finish, there are many bronzing powders, blushes, and luminizing products available on the market to add a glowing freshness to the face. This can be done quickly and easily and the effect is beautiful, flawless skin.

I was privileged enough to meet the founder of The Powder Group, Michael DeVellis. Michael, a 14-year veteran of the makeup artist industry, was responsible for developing the MAC PRO product line and Artist Relations department for MAC Cosmetics. During his 10-year period as a MAC executive, he experienced the passion of the pro artists he was working with.

Based in the beauty capital of the world, New York City, The Powder Group consists of a collective of talent that spans the makeup artist industry and the globe. Their artists and presenters are working experts from the areas of film, television, theater, fashion, and editorial. Their seminars, lectures, workshops, and special events cover every aspect of makeup artistry. For a traditionally close-lipped industry, a resource of this nature has simply not been available in the past. New artists (or even experienced ones) had to learn and grow the hard way, by trial and error. Organizations like The Powder Group make it easy for artists to be successful. Michael was kind enough to answer a few questions for me…

JC: What advice would you give the average woman?

MD: Know your face. Know products and what looks good on you. You don’t need a salesperson to tell you if a shirt or dress is flattering on you. You certainly don’t need a salesperson to tell you that the newest orange eye shadow is your must-have color of the season – if you feel it looks horrid. A great artist will always try to understand YOU first, and then build a look around you and your needs. Not what’s on the new product display. Trend and style are completely different from each other, you should always suit your makeup to your style, not the fashion trends – unless you happen to look great in, and your style suits the newest trend.

JC: What do you think is one of the hardest lessons for a makeup artist to learn?

MD: I think the hardest lesson any pro makeup artist has to learn is that the job is not as creative as they imagined. No matter what part of the industry you work in, commercial, film, television, bridal, even fashion…most jobs require simple beautiful makeup, not feathers and glitter and bright colored swatches of product across the eyes. The creativity is built in to your role when you create those opportunities for yourself and find passion in the craft that you have chosen.

For more information, visit The Powder Group: www.thepowdergroup.com

Photo by John Falocco

What is blot powder? Blot powder is a unique pressed powder designed primarily to provide shine control without adding any noticeable color or texture to your face. When your face produces too much oil, your makeup will slip, smudge, and fade. Because blot powder absorbs excess oils, your makeup then stays in place longer. Most women are accustomed to using standard loose or pressed powders; however those types of powders contain color that will build and cake. By adding more layers of powder, your original makeup application will become heavy and “cakey”. Blot powder is invisible, therefore it doesn’t cake or build, it only absorbs. For years, blot powder was only available to professional makeup artists for use on film and television sets. It is and was the superior product for frequent touch-ups and shine control on the set. Now many cosmetic brands have made blot powder available to the public to satisfy the growing demand of professionally minded products. Blot powder comes in pressed, loose, and throw away sheet form. These brands carry blot powder or blot sheets: Almay, Laura Gellar, MAC, Tarte, and Avon.

How do I make my eye makeup last all day?

Nancy Homlish – Allentown, PA

Thank you for asking, I get this question all the time.  The trick to getting eye makeup to last all day is a combination of steps.  The main reason that eye makeup will slip off, disappear, or smudge is because of the natural oils in your skin and the oils contained in the products.  The first step is to conceal around your eyes.  This neutralizes skin discoloration and acts as a magnet for other products to stick to.  The second step is to use a primer, shadow magnet, or paint on the lid. These products go on creamy, then set to a powder keeping everything in place.  Next, you apply your eye shadow to create that brilliant effect.  Finally, you apply your eye liner at the lash line.  To really keep your liner in place, smudge it out with a fine tipped pencil brush.  Smudging eyeliner removes excess oil and provides for a soft, gradient effect.  These steps will allow you to control the oils on your eyes, therefore keeping your eye makeup in place all day.  The layering of products provides for rich, brilliant eye makeup giving you a fresh look all day long!